On Dealing With It

I’m trying really hard to not become a bitter, resentful Peace Corps Volunteer like so many I’ve met. Don’t get me wrong: I think nearly every one of the PCVs in this country are great and anyone that lasts as a PCV should be commended (it is not easy), but it seems that two years of village life leaves a few scabs and rough edges on the typical PCV’s sentiment toward Tanzania.

During those nine weeks of training that now seem so long ago we were all introduced to several PCVs of the week: current Volunteers who spent a week talking to us about life as a PCV and usually running a session or two on some aspect of what our work would involve. And in my time since I’ve met dozens more PCVs and heard about their own experiences and thoughts on everything. And each of these PCVs has something new to bring to the table, a wealth of stories and anecdotes and experience to share… and the strong-minded opinions that come with it all.

The opinions that aren’t opinions to them but reality: what happens in their villages and in their schools is what happens all over the country, and they understand exactly why because they’ve been here for nearly two years and they speak the language and they’ve seen it all and done it all. And dealing with all the challenges and the frustrations and the setbacks really does do something to you. In the seven months I’ve been here I’ve already noticed my patience going, my temper shortening, my desire to socialize and to integrate diminishing. Sometimes I don’t care about the whole cultural integration thing and all I want to do is sit in my house listening to my iPod despite the fact that everyone in my village will gossip about me sitting in my house alone. Sometimes I get sick and tired of answering the same questions over and over again, like whether or not I’m going to marry a Tanzanian and if I prefer Africans over wazungu and if there are tribes in America and how do I find the climatic conditions compared to that of America. Sometimes I just don’t want to teach that day, sometimes I just don’t feel like talking to the other teachers, trying to understand their fast and mumbly Kiswahili and explaining to them why I can’t speak fluently yet, and why don’t we try having this conversation in English and we’ll see how you do. It’s irritating how much time is wasted in a day, how little priority is placed on students being in class, how much importance is placed on protocol, how people think I can’t speak Kiswahili at all and talk about me like I’m not there, how there is no line in any shop ever, sometimes even at the bank, how some people in town can’t seem to understand that no matter how many times they ask I simply won’t give them my phone number, that no matter where I go or what I am doing someone will inevitably say “Jambo Jambo!” in a nasaly voice and I will be asked for money.

Being an outsider in a foreign place is tough. All the little things add up until you can’t take it anymore and you go home, until you can’t accept it anymore and you become bitter, or until you realize that it’s what comes with the job and there’s nothing you can do to change it.

So that’s what I’m trying to do. The past two months have been the most difficult of all, the frustrations mounting and my lack of experience meaning that I still wasn’t quite sure how to deal with it all. The first few months in my village were great and then reality set in and I felt the bitterness creeping in. And I did what I could to get over it but it didn’t seem to be enough, and then I realized that everyone else I came here with was feeling it too. And I realized that we can all keep bitching about stuff and venting to each other and getting all those feelings off our chest and that in the end we can choose to continue feeling bitter or we can choose to realize that it’s just part of the job. And that what happens to us is common to other PCVs and other volunteers in the country but that it’s not always a reflection of culture, that sometimes it’s just one person’s actions or that sometimes it might be a combination of both, and other times it might be too complex to explain in such simple terms.

Another PCV put it well: everyone has their own opinion and everyone’s opinion is correct. But it’s important for us to realize that we each have our own experiences with their similarities and their differences, and that our perspectives on it all are just one of many. No, Tanzania is not doomed if this one thing doesn’t happen and each and every Tanzanian doesn’t have an ulterior motive when they speak to an mzungu. Students here are no less capable than students anywhere else and the spread of HIV/AIDS isn’t because of this one single thing… but that’s just my opinion.

8 Comments to “On Dealing With It”

  1. Hang in there, friend. <3

  2. My grandmother used to say that God never puts more on you than you can handle…and when my family and I were overseas facing cultural difficulties, we would say ” it’s not good, it’s not bad, it’s just different”!!
    Hope you have an easy time of it soon, & remember, a lot of us would pay big bucks to be where you are now for a vacation!

  3. You’re feeling many of the same things I felt in Liberia long ago, and I emphathize with you. The first year for me was one of much culture shock.

    For what it’s worth, to me the second year was easier. I knew people better and people knew me better. I also developed an attitude that some things just weren’t worth fighting for. For example, my students didn’t come to school on days when it rained (and during the rainy season there were many missed days), even though I told them that on rainy days I’d give really easy quizzes that they’d get A’s on. After agonizing over it for some time I finally came to the conclusion that I couldn’t win, and life would be ever so much more bearable to just let it be. So I stayed home on rainy days too. I just gave up on several additional hopes cultivated from my background, and realized that what I could do would be of some benefit to the locals.

    In Liberia it was the cultural differences that got to me, not the physical things, and I can tell you’re having the same.

    What sometimes helped a lot was just getting away from it all, even for a few hours. Since I was in the capital city sometimes a few of us volunteers went to a really nice restaurant in a really nice western style hotel for a good meal, and relaxing over drinks for an evening. It was great to escape to more of our own culture for a few hours and was good for the soul. Perhaps you all can do something similar in Karatu, or maybe you already do. I don’t know if you and friends could escape to someplace like the Bougainvillia Safari Lodge or the High View Hotel, and if their meals are only for guests at the hotels or for anyone.

    Just my humble thoughts… Hang in there; you are helping the locals in ways that may be difficult to measure, but you will have a good influence and help them in many ways.

  4. I think what you’re doing is amazing. Tanzania is a much different place and having been a tourist there, I know what I was getting as a tourist, I can only imagine what you are experiencing. It was overwhelming to be treated as a “rich white person” everywhere I went.

    I do have a suggestion. I really think you should make your way over to one of the places I stayed on our trip, that place we were going to meet up. It’s called Gibbs Farm in Karatu. It rests right up next to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It’s run by Americans, we talked with a guy from Seattle who is their main Marketing guy and he really made us feel at home. The food is western & delicious and the people are really friendly. It’s a coffee plantation too so there’s lots of good coffee and a working farm. I’m imagining if you strike up a friendship there, you might feel a little more at home and away from the cultural differences. Just if you could spend an afternoon there or something occasionally, it might help a little. :-)

    Hang in there.

  5. Danielle,

    I’ve been reading various PCV blogs, and there’s one by Lauren that I’ve enjoyed as much as yours! If you get a chance, please go to http://peacecorpsjournals.com/?Journal&journal_id=8017 and read “Harambee.”

  6. Hey – I’m a current PCV in Bulgaria and saw your blog from Peace Corps Journals. I’m in my last three months and dealing with some of the same frustrations right now. I even wrote a blog about it today (www.vgoode.blogspot.com). It amazes me to see that PCVs all over the world – no matter how different our environments – can still relate to the feelings of other PCVs! Keep up the good work over there!

  7. The Starfish Story
    Original Story by: Loren Eisley
     
    One day a man was walking along the beach when he noticed
    a boy picking something up and gently throwing it into the ocean. 
    Approaching the boy, he asked, “What are you doing?”
    The youth replied, “Throwing starfish back into the ocean. 
    The surf is up and the tide is going out.  If I don’t throw them back, they’ll die.”
    “Son,” the man said, “don’t you realize there are miles and miles of beach and hundreds of starfish? 
    You can’t make a difference!”
    After listening politely, the boy bent down, picked up another starfish,
    and threw it back into the surf.  Then, smiling at the man, he said…”
    I made a difference for that one.”

  8. Hey I am a PCV in Romania, I feel lots of the same things you do right now, I am just about at the 1 year mark at site. Don’t forget that the hard work you are doing is not always the first thing to come out of people’s mouths. The training and help you are providing to your students, and your influence and commitment is what is going to persevere far beyond the day by day frustrations (which believe me, I do understand!).

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